The most talked-about collection at the spring/summer 2024 fashion shows was the one that wasn’t there. Phoebe Philo, yet to unveil her highly anticipated eponymous line initially set for an online debut in September, stole the spotlight. Six years after departing Céline, Philo’s influence dominated the fashion news cycle throughout the month, leaving designers on edge about a potential surprise digital drop from the revered designer.
Philo’s cult status as a fashion savior was amplified by the announcement that Sarah Burton’s spring/summer 2024 show would be her last for Alexander McQueen, and Gabriela Hearst’s departure from Chloé. New leaderships are coming with Sabato de Sarno at Gucci, Peter Hawkings at Tom Ford, Peter Do at Helmut Lang, and Louise Trotter at Carven. This shift raises questions about the representation of female designers in top fashion houses. At LVMH, the world’s largest luxury conglomerate, only Dior and Pucci have female creative directors, while Stella McCartney and Phoebe Philo run their own namesake brands. At Kering, the second-largest conglomerate, no brand is helmed by a woman or a person of color.
Amid this disparity and a challenging economic and political backdrop, designers played it safe for spring/summer 2024. Collections featured muted palettes, with black and white overshadowing the usual summer brights. Retina-searing red was a rare vibrant color. The post-pandemic era’s body positivity and nude looks have faded, along with the diversity of body types on the runway.
Statement gowns gave way to discreet chic, emphasizing wardrobe staples like trench coats, pencil skirts, trouser suits, and good jeans. Fashion search engine Tagwalk reported a 46% increase in “minimalism”-tagged looks from the spring/summer 2024 shows in New York, London, Milan, and Paris, compared to the previous season. Logo-tagged looks dropped by 52%, while ’90s-tagged looks surged by 42%, becoming the most searched tag. This trend aligns with the upcoming 25th anniversary of Carolyn Bessette-Kennedy’s death and the “quiet luxury” movement inspired by “Succession,” reflecting the understated ’90s New York elegance of the former Calvin Klein publicist.
